Best double length sling anchor reddit. I've started carrying a giant loop of Dyneema.
Best double length sling anchor reddit Now, I should have said that the anchor on the left is a really nice setup for multipitch climbing because you isolate yourself from the belay device/follower. BD Positron Lockers on one QD + BD Positron non-lockers on other) For bolted anchors that are still close, but too far apart for QD's: Double-length (120cm) sewn nylon sling plus four (4) BD Positron locking carabiners (one for each bolt, plus two for masterpoint). There's a good reason people say to clove hitch in with the rope to an anchor. ) are a useful length—roughly 2 or 3 times longer than most quickdraws; they're a good length to wear over a shoulder or as an alpine quickdraw. I'd also have the best angle possible between the two legs, minimizing the forces on each bolt. 8mm (70m) Now me and a couple friends are getting into multipitch climbs and I want to know the best ways to build an anchor, belay, switch off, etc. w. Based on the reading I've done, it's recommended that if you use a PAS for belaying a follower, you want to tie in with something else (a sling, a quickdraw, whatever) to the 2nd bolt for redundancy. You're good. Personally, I like a double length nylon sling (like this 16mm one from DMM) tied in a sliding X configuration with two limiter knots for TR on two bomber bolts. A double length sling is also useful for aiding through hard cruxes if you don't want to bail. If not, I'll do a sling in each bolt. Use this for gear anchors, tree anchors and so forth Also get a couple double length slings for tied off anchors. -double length sling. Equalization is a myth - especially dynamic Posted by u/SirWill - 1 vote and 18 comments I like the space that it frees up on the harness, and also the added location to grab a sling when needed. And honestly, two equallettes isn't bad. We also bring up a shovel and probe for the group. If there are bolted anchors just get a double shoulder length sling and 4 locking biners. P anchor. The sewn label and ease of unraveling an alpine draw is worth the premium price imo. I only use it for static protection though, I would never use a sling as a PAS if I wanted to work on a particular section of a climb off belay, for example - although it would probably hold, other systems transfer much less energy to the last point of security, such as a PAS made from dynamic rope. It's definitely arguable how much time it actually saves. If you want redundancy (slings can get worn after a while) then put an overhand knot halfway up a double length sling. Double-length slings (120cm/48 in. The home of Climbing on reddit. Also, any PAS or personal tether is generally girth hitched, not attached with a carabiner so you only need 2 not 3 (in some cases 1 but then you give up redundancy). I recently bought a cordelette so I rarely use the 10 foot webbing anymore but they were handy if anchors were set back slightly and a double length sling wasn't enough. You can equalize a 3 piece anchor with a double-length sling in a sliding X. If the pieces are far from each other, I might build a mini anchor (sliding X) on 2 of the pieces w/ a double length sling to extend them a bit. For threading through an anchor I usually use 2 quickdraws, or one girth-hitched long sling and a quickdraw. Redundant against: Jul 2, 2018 · I have been using the clove hitch with a Dyneema sling (Clove Hitch Trad Anchor) to build my anchors, but after watching the DMM Video(DMM Sling test) of them breaking slings, with the knotted Dyneema breaking at way less than the knotted Nylon sling, I am considering changing to the Nylon 240cm sling. 5 grams. If you use that product, it might be best to replace the stock "biner" with a true micro biner of your choice. If you're just Sep 1, 2023 · Another popular length is 120cm (48"), a sling that is most frequently used for equalizing multiple pieces of protection in an anchor. You need a triple-length Dyneema sling rather than the double you are using. I have been using the "sliding X" and "equalette" anchor systems but am looking to invest in a cordelette to build a quad anchor with for extended periods of top roping. But 99 times out of 100 I'll pick dynema 2 double-length nylon slings 4 single-length nylon slings several non lockers 6 lockers a rope! Climbing Anchors by John Long, or any other anchor-building book This gear will allow you to utilize natural features to build top-rope anchors. Rappel off this knot, use the rest of the sling to clip in to the anchors when doing multiple rappels. Clove hitch into locker and on the non weighted rope strand I tie a figure 8 on a bight for redundancy/backup If I clipped the rope directly to all my pro, I'd probably carry one double-length sling for a sliding X, and use cord for everything else. The slings could be looped multiple times over the biner attached to the bolt or knotted to equalize. But double/120cm length slings are always very useful, so worth having some of those as well. ~20ft of nylon 7-8mm cord, tied into a loop with double fisherman's knot. The only impact it has is making sure I have two of the same length for the anchor. Subreddit for both professional and civilian tactical gear. And have never once selected one to put on a bolt because it was 2” longer or shorter. ) give you greater extension for reducing rope drag or positioning pro; a perfect size for building two-bolt, fixed anchors, they Aug 18, 2019 · Double-length slings can be useful for equalizing anchors if the situation warrants, and are the perfect length to use as personal tether to a climbing or rappel anchor if you do not use a personal anchor system instead. I tend to use slings or cord when leading in blocks and use the rope when swinging leads. Brands recommend replacing after 5 years, most people say 10, Ive whipped on 13y/o slings. Enough carabiners for all of that (except the cord) to have 2 per sling/draw. Reply reply anonymous_commentor And I absolutely agree on if the bolts are further spaced apart than usual. I still carry a double length nylon for a person anchor or if I need something maybe a bit more abrasion resistant. Years later I’m still stuck with two different lengths. 248K subscribers in the tacticalgear community. Weight of cord should scale with cross-section so since 2*5 2 ~ 7 2 it would depend on how efficient each configuration is and how much thinner the double strand version can be. On the down this is used to extend my rappel. A safer alternative using the gear in hand would be to use one sling per bolt and knot the two together above the lockers. Please be also advised, that the knot in the sling will reduce the holding power of the sling. Mar 31, 2016 · Use the PAS or a runner as a rap sling, but not as a substitute for anchor-building. I find having something extra only for that purpose is unnecessary and just extra bulk. How many cams and alpine qd depends on how hard the climb would be, but general scrambling with some small pitch climbing around 4 cams and 6 qd, but I' Jul 2, 2018 · I have been using the clove hitch with a Dyneema sling (Clove Hitch Trad Anchor) to build my anchors, but after watching the DMM Video(DMM Sling test) of them breaking slings, with the knotted Dyneema breaking at way less than the knotted Nylon sling, I am considering changing to the Nylon 240cm sling. 5mm. Posted by u/richard_briggs7 - 4 votes and 10 comments Drop the PAS and opt for a double length sling, a single length sling and some static cord for a prussik loop. the ‘double-double’): The YouTuber suggested possibly using two individual double-length slings with Magic-Xs. But you can't always trust a bolt, so clip two if you can when going in direct. Best of Reddit; Topics; Content Policy; I would just go with a double-length sling - 120 cm here: yeah. Imposible to know if you found the best location for the anchor because we cant see anywhere else so maybe you chose the best spot but like its been said try to avoid relying on a single block. 2 live trees, at least as big around as your thigh. S. Reply reply anonymous_commentor Sep 19, 2019 · Rappel extensions started becoming in vogue around 2006 after a climbing accident in Wyoming where a friction hitch backup was likely tended or pushed down by the device causing the climber to lose control and eventually rappel off the end of the rope. Nwslackline. On the up, the locker doubles as the locker for my ATC in guide mode, the prusik can double as an extra sling if I run out. Holy shit it's so nice for anchors. I usually only need two single length slings to create the anchor. I was planning on using a 240cm sling and making an equalete or S. Most people just use any standard sling or chain some draws together. 6 depending in the knot //the 2 comes from the fact that you have 2 strings when knoting cord together Wondering if this is a proper/safe way to fix a rope for a photographer. Yes, the knots weaken the sling, but I'm not sure you'd live through a 22kn impact anyway. Moved Permanently. Eli gave you two options. Nylon slings do degrade with time and moreso with sun exposure. The twist is needed if you want the anchor to be redundant. e. The irregular rock surface under the lobes on the right are a little sketch. Oct 22, 2017 · Evolve your thinking past what is "best" or "best practice". Same as before More slings Posted by u/BillyIron96 - 1 vote and no comments The twist is needed if you want the anchor to be redundant. Posted by u/WildWilly29 - 5 votes and 29 comments Bungee tether, either homemade, or pre made like the BD Slinger leash. I like the space that it frees up on the harness, and also the added location to grab a sling when needed. But honestly, for simple top ropes that don’t require extension etc, you’ll Probably be fine with just quick draws. Posted by u/sheatetheseeds - 27 votes and 73 comments But it certainly does not conform to best practices. I do like having a few slings when sport climbing to extend wandering bolts and reduce rope drag. The document has moved here. Setting up on a different route: 2 bolt anchor, double length sling tied with figure 8, locker on masterpoint. You'll need some way of keeping yourself safely clipped-in while you're setting and cleaning the anchor. -Prussik cord with a locker. k. Pretty light and plenty of length. Yep, static line is probably your best option for extending toprope anchors. If you meet these criteria, i would recommend a double length (120cm) or a quad length (240cm) dyneema sling depending on the type of anchor you’ll make, with 3-4 lockers. Apr 12, 2019 · This sling comes in four different lengths, and while we tested the double-length (60cm) version, which is ideal for use on lead to extend protection pieces, either the 120cm or 240cm versions would be solid choices for use in anchor building. Extra long extension or anchors. 6 depending in the knot //the 2 comes from the fact that you have 2 strings when knoting cord together Most people just use any standard sling or chain some draws together. that's more of an anchor building rope. Oct 23, 2012 · Anchor yourself to a tree or crack with a long sling or length of rope before approaching the cliff edge to set up a toprope. ) give you greater extension for reducing rope drag or positioning pro; a perfect size for building two-bolt, fixed anchors, they can be worn doubled over a shoulder or as an alpine quickdraw. It would be a bad idea to fall on one, but you really shouldn't put yourself in that position. the knot might snag. 3 to 0. Usually bring 8-10 alpine shoulder length draws, 3 double length slings with carabiners over the shoulder ( for extension, anchor building, slinging shit, and rap tether), and often like 4 regular lightweight sport draws. Slings are static so a factor two is going to be disastrous. Cost effective multi-purpose item with the distinct disadvantages of not being adjustable or shock absorbing. 4-6 lockers, with at least two being dedicated solely for top roping and one being dedicated for your belay device. A. Tied to my harness, alpine butterfly in the middle, and 8 at the end. dadiweigealxgncirgvbgvnomvtjfblgzuwlvfaoakyirkcvqetgntorfeejtbqwikuwltdcfqeyjryic